Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Pseudo-Moroccan Orange & Almond Cake


an aesthetically pleasing moment of Moroccan beauty

Inspired by this weekend's jaunt to Daphne's where I spotted a similar cake on their menu which they call their Blood Orange & Polenta Cake I thought I'd share a recipe I made a couple of months ago and absolutely loved. It reminds me of Italy because of the oranges and almonds, but, really, it most takes me back to my short but exciting time in Morocco last year. For this reason I call it my Pseudo-Moroccan Orange & Almond cake.

When I eat this cake I am reminded of Matt slurping down 3-Dirham orange juice at the stands in the insanely hectic Jemaa El Fna, and of fig, apricot, almond and dried good vendors selling kilos of deliciousness for next to nothing. In short, the Orange & Almond Cake I made (based on a recipe from my wonderous Olive Magazine) is unique and delicious for many reasons - some food-related and some slightly more intangible, but nevertheless aesthetically pleasing and dear to me.


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My Varied Inspiration for Making Orange & Almond Cake
tangible or not


4. Any excuse to make Homemade Whipped Cream
Once I'd actually made the cake, I had a lot of fun deciding what to serve it with. I didn't have anymore fresh oranges at hand, which is probably a good thing given the really orange-y punch the syrup packs, but I did have some lovely, hard green pears. I sliced those beauts up and then noticed Olive suggested serving it with Creme Fraiche. I decided instead to serve it with homemade, chilled almond whipped cream.

I love making whipped cream by hand. It gives me a funny satisfaction that little else can. I don't use a beater. I just grab my favorite mixing bowl and a whisk and set to it. It's like a little emotional odyssey, making whipped cream. At first you're excited, then you start to get tired and annoyed, then you start to wonder if you're doing something wrong because your arm is about to fall off, and then finally you spy some semi-stiff peaks and get your second wind. After that it's a delicate dance in finding the perfect point at which to stop beating so your cream is still creamy but not runny.

Everyone who likes whipped cream should be required to try this process at least once. You get a thrilling satisfaction at the end that makes the cream twice as exquisite. Not to mention, you gain an appreciation for what making things from scratch really means. Not a bad thing.


3. Syrup Soaked Cakes - a snobbery-induced dilemma?
After having worked in a bakery, with professional bakers, I was always given the impression that when a professional (or amateur) soaked a cake in copious amounts of flavored syrup, it was a way of hiding stale, old cake and introducing a false sense of freshness and moisture. I became a purist snob on the issue and vowed never to soak MY precious little sponges in those bastardized-sugary-conconctions.

This cake changed my mind. Because it is made with semolina, the cake is crumblier and maybe drier (though it isn't dry!) than normal sponges. The orange syrup does not make it spongey and moist - it simply becomes the final, necessary touch to complete what is a subtley flavored cake enhanced by essence and sweetness of orange. Part of me loves this because it means that you can vary the flavor sensation of this treat by making countless numbers of syrups - passion fruit, strawberry, lemon, lime...the list goes on! I also found that I loved the cake on its own without the syrup, because it almost tasted more like an intangibly sweet bread, which could be eaten with savory foods too.

Maybe syrups are a dilemma no more - as long as they are not used for shady purposes in the kitchen!


2. A Little Slice of Morocco
In case you haven't gathered from other posts of mine, I love Morocco and Moroccan things. Last year right around this month, Matt and I made an extended weekend trip to Morocco, during which time I was dazzled by many foods and cultural practices, many of which left me enchanted, some of which left me bewildered.

This cake, for me, is like a little slice of Moroccco. The moment I took a bite I was taken back to breakfast on the rooftop of our Riad. Besides the delicious bread, cheese and eggs we were served, we were also given a soft cake-like slice that had the same texture as this cake, but which smelled and tasted of rose water and strawberry jelly. I tried, in vain, to get the recipe from staff, but their English was as good as my Arabic (read: non-existent) and so I surrendered to the tragic idea that I'd have to live on memory alone for the rest of my life. Photo captions: breakfast at our riad in Morocco & the Jemaa El Fna.

Luckily, this recipe came around. I was immediately transported back to the Jemaa El Fna, the Hammam, the Riad Courtyard and the unofficial two-person chess tournament that Matt and I indulged in while sipping delicious and copious amounts of Mint tea...substitute a sprinkle of rose water and a smear of strawberry jam for the orange syrup (or combine the two!) and you'll be there right next to me in a rose-water induced pleasure-coma.


1. Nutty & Corny, in a Good Way
What made this cake different from any other I'd ever made is the fact that the batter is made almost entirely of ground almonds and semolina - only including a miniscule amount of flour and substituting Greek Yogurt for milk or any other liquidy substance. Odd, I thought. Maybe even a bit nutty. But I was wrong. It works perfectly. The cake is moist but crumbly. It's delicate and anything but spongey. It falls apart while you eat it, forcing you to use the tip of your finger to pick up crumbs on your plate - a simple pleasure that, I think, should be indulged in now and again.

I loved making a cake out of ground almonds and semolina, two ingredients I enjoy immensely on their own. Plus, those ingredients make me think of Italy and Morocco as well, adding to the aesthetically pleasing aspects of this cake once again. A nutty and corny cake? Indeedy-do. But in a good way.

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Pseudo-Moroccan Orange & Almond Cake
(adapted from a recipe in Olive Magazine)

Serves 8-10

sadly, I did not capture the whipped cream :(

I made this cake for a two-person tea party I had with a friend of mine a couple of months ago. It was a sunny winter day, and this fresh and bright cake was just what we needed to warm up to the idea that we still had another couple of months to go before Spring hit.

I served it, as mentioned above, with chilled almond whipped cream (though you can stick to Olive's suggeston of creme fraiche) and sliced pears. But, as Daphne's suggests, sliced blood oranges would have been delicious with it. Hope you enjoy it as much as I did.


Ingredients

Cake
250g butter
200g golden caster sugar
4 eggs
50g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
250g semolina
200g ground almonds
120g Greek Yogurt


Orange Syrup
2 Oranges, zest and juice
2 cinnamon sticks
272g sugar (caster or granulated)

Almond Whipped Cream
1 tsp almond extract
1 tbsp caster or icing sugar
250g Double or Heavy Whipping Cream


Procedure

1.
Heat the oven to 160C or 325F. Butter a 20cm or 8in springform cake pan.

2.
Make the syrup by combining all the ingredients in a small pot with 500ml of water and bringing the contents slowly toa simmer. Stir the mixture until the sugar has completely disolved, then reduce the heat and simmer until syrupy (about 10 minutes). Set aside but keep warm.

3. Beat the butter, sugar and orange zest until pale and fluffy. Beat the eggs in a small bowl, then whisk into the butter mixture one at a time.

4. Sift the dry ingredients (flour and baking powder) into the mixture and fold through along with the orange zest, semolina and almonsd. Add the orange juice and yogurt and stir gently, until combined.

5. Pour intot he prepared cake pan and cook for about 1 hour or until firm to the touch and a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the center.

6. While still hot, pierce the cake 20-30 times with a skewer all over the top. Pour half the hot syrup over the warm cake and leave to cool completely. When serving, spoon over extra syrup to taste.

7. For the whipped cream: in a metal bowl whip the cream (by hand with a whisk or with an electric mixer if you're a wuss :) ) until you get stiff-ish peaks. Do not over whip or it will become too think and unpleasant. Add the sugar and almond extract and fold in gently with a spatula. Chill in the refrigerator for half an hour before serving with sliced pears.


NOTE: Apologies for not converting the recipe to American-friendly non-gram quantities. On that topic, I'd actually highly recommend everyone have a small kitchen scale anyway. I had to buy one for the first time on moving here to the land of kilos and liters and it's actually been very handy. :)
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Monday, March 23, 2009

London Restaurant Week #1: A Night at Daphne's


Daphne's Restaurant
photo credit

Memories of the "tenderliest" of boeuf bourguignons and a painfully delicious cheese course at Artisanal along with a night full of swanky-sushi-decadence at the infamous Brazilian-Japanese fusion house of cool Sushi Samba, both in New York, were only the final impetus in convincing me I needed reservations for a couple of places here in London during this year's Restaurant Week. My own food-obsessed nature had already done most of the work a long time before that. Thank God for Spring- and thank God for Restaurant Week - a much needed and delicious distraction in these last weeks of pregnancy!


A Little History and Thought on Restaurant Weeks
why NYC is still better, but London is climbing the ranks

Piggy-backing off of the big apple's much-lauded week of affordable feasting which dates back to 1992 and was intended originally for visitors and officials storming New York for the Democratic National Convention, London's version is comparatively paired down.


For one thing, it has only been around for three years, is twice as long (which provides more meal times, but less prestige,
if that's your bag), and cannot boast (IMHO) anything near to the list of glitterati-fine-dining to be found in Manhattan. Despite this and in conjunction with the sheisty economy, it does actually offer a few very compelling reasons to search out the hidden but nevertheless present foody gems here in London town, and, for once, prices those meals right where they should be.

London may be dangling a praise-worthy number of Michelin-stars before the pirana-esque jaws of the ever-growing yet cost-conscious foody community, but no matter what they do, they just can't offer the same ambiance and New-Yorkness that places like Cafe des Artistes, L'Impero, Tabla, or Nobu NY have running through their veins.


Ignoring the usual claims of limited choice, paired-down entrees, hostile servers and hob-knobbing with riff-raff, I made two reservations this year - the first of which was for a Sunday dinner, last night. The second was more of a wishful-thinking outing in the sense that I really don't know whether I'll even be up for going out to dinner in a week's time, especially on a crowded Friday night, given Ludovictus' growing size. But it is at a Michelin-starred restaurant (a rare treat in these shady economic times!), so maybe I'll suck it up and carry my swollen-footed-self over there just to say I've been.

Besides, Matt and I have kind of an unspoken agreement that it is a good thing to try to cram in as many romantic dates as we can between now and mid April. :)

* * *

A Night at Daphne's Restaurant

tucked away on Chelsea's beautiful Draycott Avenue - tasteful and tasty Daphne's
photo credit


I had originally booked a table at Boisdale of Belgravia, but having read it was a disappointment I switched to what promised to be a treat: Daphne's Restaurant in Chelsea / South Kensington.

I was first swayed over to Daphne's because they mentioned grilled rabbit on their menu. To me, if a place serves something as simple and delicious as grilled rabbit, it is either very good or someone is in over his head in the kitchen. With a 3-course dinner offering for only GBP25.00 per person, everything about this dinner already screamed "great," but much to my surprise, Daphne's upped the anty and even went so far as to offer a complimentary glass of wine with the restaur
ant week offer, something that no other establishment I'd looked at did.

Daphne's is a "modern Italian restaurant" which means very little these days. It seems like there are
modern Italian restaurants on every corner, all specializing in this pasta or that risotto and offering up copious amounts of less-than-pleasant things like olive oil gelato and all decorating with bad frescoes and rosemary topiaries. Despite the restaurant's stucco walls, the cliche did not stick: Daphne's is the first restaurant I've walked into in London that felt sophisticated and exciting without being pretentious or trendy. A holding of the Caprice Restaurant Group, its sister restaurants are some of the most well-known and celebrated in London (think The Ivy and Scott's), and yet, this newest Caprice acquisition manages to maintain an understated luxury and warm efficiency in service that some of the more (more being a key word here, because Daphne's is frequented by that crowd) celebrity-ridden eating establishments are happy to lose.

After taking our coats and showing us to our table, the maitre d', having noticed Ludovictus, offered me an extra cushion for my back, which I was both taken aback by (Customer service!? Am I dreaming?!
) and delighted with. The entire restaurant smelled of fresh lillies (a giant bouquet of which was situated next to our table), and the tables, though small, were not overcrowded by useless centerpieces.

The waiters were fast, friendly, knowledgeable and - all Italian. There was no snickering when we ordered tap water, as we always do. No condescension when they noticed our American accents or that of the other couple we were with. Ladies were always served first, coffees were good (despite not coming with dessert as promised), water plentiful, and we were not rushed through
the meal by any means. The atmosphere was calm, quiet, and relaxed. We felt at home to joke and chat, but didn't have to scream over the (many) families with children around us celebrating mother's day. Amazing. And all that for 50quid a couple.

I don't think I'd dare hope for more, even in New York.


What we had:

Nibbles: Complimentary, home-baked breads including a delicious rosemary foccacia which I greedily devoured.

First Course: Antipasti
I started with Calamaretti Fritti con Aioli (baby fried calamari with aioli). Ridiculously tender, freshly and lightly fried, and I don't even like Aioli (mayo isn't my thing) but I ate almost the entire generous blob on my plate. Matt had the Zuppa di Fagioli, which he finished so quickly and liked so much I
didn't even get to try it!
One of our friends had the calamari like me and the other had a simple Arugula and parmigiano salad, which she seemed pleased with.

Second Course: Secondi Piatti
Sadly, they were not offering the grilled rabbit on their restaurant week menu. Matt and I both opte
d for the pan-fried Plaice with mushrooms and aubergines. The fish was perfectly cooked, but I thought in general the dish was just ok. I wish I'd gotten the chicken because it looked amazingly cooked and the spinach that accompanied it was quite a hit.

Our friends had Pollo alla Griglia con Spinaci e Pepperoncino (Grilled Chicken with Spinach and pepperoncino) and Ravioli di Zucca con Amaretti e Salvia (squash ravioli with amaretti and sage). Both seemed more than happy to clean their plates.

Third Course: Dolci
When it came to dessert I was slightly disappointed that they were not offering the Polenta Blood Orange Cake their online menu boasted. I happen to love cakes made with semolina, as you will see in tomorrow's post. But nevermind, we pressed on.

Three out of four of us were tempted by the Frittele al Cioccolato con gelato all'Arancia (Venetian Frittele with orange ice cream), despite not being sure what they were other than something "fried." The last, got a lonely but rather amazing tiramisu.

The Frittele were, much to our surprise, little Italian doughnut holes. At first I was a little
disappointed when I saw my plate (I didn't want doughnuts!) but then I took the first bite. These were the softest, doughiest, yummiest chocolatey-filled doughnut holes in the world! And they were warm. And the blood-orange ice cream worked perfectly with them. I think it was my favorite course of the entire meal!

tiramisu & selection of gelati

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Daphne's Restaurant
www.daphnes-restaurant.co.uk
112 Draycott Avenue
London SW3 3AE

Tel: 020 7589 4257

All photos from the Daphne's website, unless otherwise noted.
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