A Time to Cheese.

Alluring cheeses at Borough Market, London 2010

In life there are times to cook, and then there are times to cheese.

Some days you just can't bring yourself to whip even the simplest of dinners up, and, lucky for me, I live with two men who will happily sit down to a table of bread and cheese as a complete meal.  Confession: I can't say I'm entirely with them.  I need something to go with the bread and cheese (prosciutto? olives? avocado? homemade jam? Membrillo!), but maybe that's the Mexican in me coming out.  My ancestral tendency to leave the cheese to the Europeans can't be entirely escaped.  (Translation: I'd still rather have some huevos rancheros.)  But despite all that, I do have to agree with my 3 year-old, there are most definitely days when you just have to cheese.

I remember well the feeling I had as the cheese cart was wheeled over to us at Daniel in NYC back in 2006.  (Brenda's inner-monologue: "A cheese course?! Amazing. OMG - what the hell do I choose?!")  It was the same feeling I used to get when I'd timidly walk to the cheese counter in Agata & Valentina and then run off pretending I didn't want cheese anyway.  Or how I felt going into the infamous Murray's Cheese with my chef brother-in-law for the first time.

Overwhelmed.

Slightly scared to ask questions.  Worried I'd pick the wrong one and end up not eating it, or, worse yet, not pick anything at all.  Then worrying the monger / waiter would judge me based on what I did pick.  Dreading that with one wrong turn I might end up with a shoe-box apartment that was not only stiflingly small, but also smelled like stinky feet.

A good meal.
Image credit: Marcus Ciardiello

  It has taken a couple of years (about seven, actually) for me to feel somewhat comfortable going to a cheese monger.  I didn't grow up eating a lot of cheese - outside of Oaxaca and Queso Fresco, of course.  As a remedy, it helped to live in London for almost four years.  There, cheese - good cheese - is available at even the worst supermarkets (well, not at the rather unfortunate Iceland, but you get the idea).  I dove head first into deliciously crumbly, aged Cheddars.  Dabbled in the world of wonderfully fruity Wensleydales.  And occasionally even tried a Stilton or two - ever-eyeing the Potted Stiltons at Fortnum & Mason - though I've, admittedly and somewhat shamefully, never been a huge fan of blue cheeses.

At some point in there, I also made a brief foray into the world of luxury food marketing and had the opportunity to visit Casa dei Giovani - and their cheese farm (a side business to their charity-fueled olive oil) where I took home a small wheel of handmade Pecorino plucked from the aging barn where the sheep themselves were tended to.  I carried it home to England, gently tucked in between my clothes on my carry-on.  I never looked at cheese the same way again.

These days, I am decidedly more adventurous in my cheesing.  I don't buy imitation Parmiggiano - Matt and Roman are far-too addicted to the real-thing to ever go back.  And I am lucky to, even in Denver, have grocers near me that carry wonderful, wonderful cheeses from both local (US) and international makers. 

After tasting many, many cheeses I feel it's truly an art and something that takes time to appreciate.  Each is different, unique and worth getting to know.  I still have some I like better (goat) than others (sheep), but at least now I can eat cheese for cheese's sake - without having to drown it in Membrillo or cold cuts.

Here are some of my favorites lately - maybe next time you don't feel like cooking, grab a few, sit down, and enjoy one of life's acquired-yet-simple pleasures.  Go on, cheese it.

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Brenda's Top Five Favorite Cheeses

Lately, anyway, and in no particular order

Camembert, fruit, saucisson & olives: an old standby.
Image Credit: Marcus Ciardiello

 

 

1. Cypress Grove's Humboldt Fog, American, Goat's Milk
This is a cheese I discovered in Maine, though it's made in California.  I love the tangy goatness of it.  So delicious and creamy - kind of a crowd-pleaser, actually.  And yet somewhat more sophisticated than the average goat cheese because of the distinctive layer of vegetable ash running like a vein through the center.  I love that America is producing such great cheeses now - no longer have to only buy French, Swiss or Italian.

2. Gorgonzola Dolce, Italian, Cow's Milk
My local King Soopers Supermarket is a hidden gem of delicious and reasonably priced cheeses.  They have a bargain bin where all the pieces are under $5 - a deal for good cheese.  In one of those a couple of weeks back I found a great looking piece of Gorgonzola Dolce.  Being a professed blue-hater, I had no clue that this would be the cheese for me.  Developed specifically to be milder than regular gorgonzola, it packs a gentler, kinder punch.

3. Parmiggian Reggiano, Italian, Raw Cow's Milk
Does Parma make any bad food?!  This is a classic but it bears repeating: everything tastes better with a little Parmiggiano on it.  I've always cooked with it, but it's only been in the past few years that I've started eating it alone, serving it as part of my cheese plates, and letting Roman snack on it.  It's a strong flavor, but one that is complex and infinitely satisfying with its crumbly, yet substantial feel.  While I almost always buy the Italian original, it's worth noting that there are now some nice American counterparts (counterfeits? :)) from, of course, Wisconsin.

Personal goal: to one day have a whole wheel in my house for the holidays, and finish it. :)

4. Taleggio, Italian, Cow's Milk
What a stinker this cheese is!  But it's creamy and receives the honor of being classified as "truly delish" by yours truly.  I have to admit that I especially like when it's really aged and becomes runny.  I don't like keeping it in the fridge for long because it really does make it awkward when you have visitors who don't like / know much about stinky cheese and its surprisingly large stink-span.  I also think it's cool that this type of cheese (washed-rind, smear-ripened) has been around since the Roman times.  Cicero cheese, anyone?

5. Saint-André
This cheese is almost too much.  Triple-cream?  Seriously?  
Predictably, it's one of Matt's favorites - a self-professed cream-freak and lover of cow's milk cheeses.  And after having it several times, I've also come around to loving it.  I especially love the white, fluffly, billowy little mold skin that covers the outside of the cheese.  If left to properly come to temp, this cheese is the closest thing you'll find to eating really, really sophisticated cheese-flavored-butter.  Ok, something about that almost grosses me out.  I can't eat much when we do have it (not that Matt minds), but I do love having an indulgent slice or two.

Life is so random.

"Rambling Roman", Baxter Woods, Portland, ME

Life is so random.  Every once in a while I am taken by something surprising or beautiful or strange and re-realize it - that life is so random.  And I am always just so amazed by that and the fact that it all works out so nicely in the end.

Most of the great things that have ever happened to me have been so random: meeting Matt, living abroad (why Italy? why London? WHY Abu Dhabi?!), growing up in Texas, insisting on Notre Dame, teaching in Washington Heights, seeing George McFly ("Hey Biff, get your God-d*mned hands off her...") at the Trump Vodka launch party back in '06...the list goes on. 
My mom is by far the most random person I know but I'm a pretty random person too.  Just look at all the random stuff I write about and like!  It seriously never ends - I'm not kidding!

There are those that would assert that the world is actually entirely organized, even in its randomness (see this highly intellectual and generally beyond me theory).  But to that I say: whatevs!  I think some of the beauty is lost in trying to scientifically create or glean a "TOE" (theory of everything, fyi).  Why create more order than necessary? I always say.

So recently I've been feeling both "good random" and "bad random" at play in my life.  For example, because my life is currently in relocation-limbo, I occasionally feel aimless or restless and start to have random mini-crises about what I'm doing (and not doing) with my life.  Inner monologues include: Why do people think stay at home moms aren't working?  Why haven't I opened my cafe / book shop yet?  Why don't I write my novel?  Why did I choose a stinky cheese this week?  Why do I hate the Jaguar-driving, stiletto-wearing girl across the hall with the tiny dog named Kiki?  On and on the random hating goes and then it just as quickly disappears and I forget it and I move onto the next (yes, random) task on my somewhat-frazzled mental to-do list.

But then there's all the random goodness that has happened of late too.  And that's what this post is about.  I've decided, very randomly, to list the top eleven random things that have happened to me lately, because there's no unifying theme to them really except what I believe to be the serendipitous and good nature of life and its essence.

* * *

Top 11 Good Random Things of Late

in no particular order

11. This past weekend I picked up a flyer for a Strong Arm Bindery Workshop at The Blue Spoon after a glass of delicious Eve Chardonnay (sister of Kung Fu Girl Riesling :)).  I am finally on my way to learning how to make and bind my own books - a longtime interest of mine.

10. A couple of weeks ago I went to a local coffee shop (Bard Coffee); the place was completely not my vibe (and I shirk from using that phrase, believe me).  But I walked by there recently and their sign outside read: "Iced Coffee: Better than Tiger Blood!"

And I just had to smile at that subtle reminder of the gaping hole in my douchebaggery series. :)

9. On our way home from camping at Swans Falls last weekend I stopped at a yard sale where I picked up two cool and aesthetically pleasing books for $1.00: Gyo Fujikawa's Come Follow Me...(to the secret world of elves, and fairies and gnomes and trolls) and Trevor Corson's The Secret Lives of Lobsters.  I am excited to read both.

8. I randomly decided it was high-time Roman was potty-trained.  And he's doing so well!  He even "marked his territory" on two trees in true little-boy fashion at Deering Oaks Park this morning after a romp at the playground and a walk around the farmer's market (awesome local Manchego in my purse).  I have a feeling this development is going to change our lives for the better in a big way!

7. I've recently been on a cheese binge, and discovered 4 new cheeses I absolutely LOVE: Clochette, Comté, St. Angel, and an American goat cheese called Humboldt Fog.  Thankful Yum! (mostly to Vignola).

6. By complete chance, the furnished apartment we have rented for this month is in front of one of the prettiest seaside parks I've ever seen.  We are on the Eastern Promenade of Portland, and every single day I get to walk by a view of rolling greenest of hills and bluest of seas dotted with green islands, sailboats, and little whitecaps if it's particularly windy.  I once saw a dark brown sailboat with an entirely royal purple sail casting off from the little dock there.  That was pretty amazing.

5. My mom just got back from a 3-week trip to Italy where she randomly saw "The Situation" of Jersey Shore Fame walking down the street in Florence with his peeps and an entourage of photographers.  More scarily, she actually knew who he was and that his "name" was "The Situation."  I find this cosmically unbelievable and equally absurd / hilarious. :)

4. I finally bought a sewing machine!  I bought one in Abu Dhabi a few months before we left and literally had to sell it before we moved without having ever taken it out of the box.  But now that we're back state-side I know my Viking E20 will be with me for many wonderful crafts and whatnot to come.

3. I randomly saw this amazing little felt activity book posted on my current obsession - PINTEREST - and decided to make a boy-version for Roman.  This was decided pre-sewing-machine so it is all hand-sewn and taking forever, but so far he loves the little dress-up boy I made.  I'll probably write a post on the finished product but thought I'd just mention that I love this project for reminding me that I find hand-stitching extremely relaxing.

2. Inspired by the beauty of Portland I've decided to resolve to take up Sea Kayaking and Cross-country Skiing this year.  I don't know how often I'll do either but I would like to try.  And I would also like to take a foraging class - maybe through the Maine Primitive Skills School or maybe Matt will take me on this Mushroom Foraging and Cooking vacation. :) 

1. I've recently come to admit to myself that my favorite ice cream flavor (a defining tidbit of info, if you ask me) is no longer Mint Chocolate Chip.  I am officially declaring to the world that I am firmly in the Cookies-n-Cream-lover territory (has to be made with Oreos though!), and that I retract my hatred of Ben & Jerry's because I single-handedly finished a pint of freakin' delicious Cherry Garcia last week and think Half-Baked is a legitimately delicious flavor too. There.  Glad that's out there.  All of it. :)

Cheesy Apple Cobbler...so à la mode.

what are you waiting for?
go make yourself the one you love some cheddar cobbler crust

Tomorrow we leave for our original honeymoon of choice (3ish years ago): Malta. This throwback to our newlywed days got me to thinking: Life's too short not to do sweet things for the ones we love.

To this tune, it is a well-known fact that Matt loves baked goods. And lucky for him, it is also apple season and therefore the perfect reason for me to pick up some nice cooking apples - Bramley apples to be exact.

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Some Quick Necessary Info on Bramely Apples

- Originally cultivated in the UK, in Nottinghamshire by a nice (no doubt)
British lady by the name of Mary Ann Brailsford (quite a nice appley-
name, wouldn't you say?)
- Specifically used for cooking because of their naturally sour taste
(we're talking Granny Smiths on serious steroids)
- When cooked they become pale and fluffy in texture,
making for ideal pies, crumbles, you name it

* * *

Nothing like a cool fall day to inspire you into baking. Being the sweet wife I am, I decided to whip up a quick apple cobbler while making Roman some of his favorite apple, pear and strawberry sauce to eat with his shockingly bland baby rice cereal in the mornings.

And so we come to my clever-clever double-double entendre title: The Cobbler is Cheesy for two reasons and à la mode for two reasons. Can you figure them out? I'm going to assume that's a negatory and roll into my highly anticipated list for today.

* * *

An Explanation in List Form of Brenda's
Clever-Clever Double-Double Entendre Title
with a focus on cheesy and à la mode

Cheesy Reason 1: The Literal One
Matt and I are big cheese eaters. Actually, Matt is a much bigger cheese eater than me, and a die-hard purist. He eats all kinds of cheese - from the most pungent to the freshest, from traditional American in slices to chunks of Danish blue - in their true unadulterated form. He might use a cracker now and then, but most days I find him in the kitchen after work slicing up some Brie or biting off large pieces of parmiggiano reggiano, straight up.

I, on the other hand, like to pair sweet with my cheese. I am a devotee on chutnies, jams, spreads and pastes - especially Quince Paste. And when I eat cheese it's because I've made a cheese plate with an assortment of cheese, crackers, and dried and fresh fruits to go with them. I have a very hard time eating cheese alone.

For this reason, I felt that a Bramley Apple Cobbler that somehow incorporated the delicious chunk of British Cheddar sitting in the fridge would be a perfect way to combine my taste and Matt's.


Cheesy Reason 2: The Cheesy One
I have few escapes from routine these days. For the sake of The Master, a routine is something we have to keep and cling to. It gives him structure, predictability and consistency. It also ensures that he doesn't starve, get over-tired, or feel entirely unsure of what the heck is going on around him. Sadly, it also makes for a somewhat predictable and often kinda boring daily life. The glamour of being a young beautiful mother (yes, I did just take that liberty) has worn off somewhat, and now I'm slowly starting to remember that I had hobbies and interests outside of changing diapers.

I love taking care of Roman, but in order to make sure I'm the best mom I can be, I make sure to take time during my week to cook something utterly unnecessary and delicious. Involved, new, and exciting. This keeps me very happy indeed.

And naturally, I love to keep the husby happy. So I thought I'd surprise him with a warm delicious dessert on a day he'd been traveling all day and I knew he'd be tired and looking for a comforting meal. Cheesy, I know.


"à la mode" Reason 1: The Literal One
According to one dictionary "à la mode" is an adjectival French phrase meaning: "According to the prevailing style or fashion."

It's not a stretch to say that because apples are in season they are also the prevailing style in terms of cooking. Ok, maybe it was a stretch.


"à la mode" Reason 2: The Pretentious Culinary Jargon One
Who doesn't love showing off their repertoire of pretentious culinary jargon?

Ok, fine, probably a lot of people could care less, but I figured I'd throw in an oldy-but-goody on this one. According to one dictionary, "à la mode" is an adjectival French phrase also meaning: "Something served with ice cream, for example, apple pie."

I don't think using it with cobbler is much of a stretch. And even if it is, it tastes damn good. :)

* * *

Cheesy Apple Cobbler
inspired by this recipe

Serves 6

Finished Cheesy Cobbler, A La Mode
I have a serious weakness for Häagen-Dazs

In case you were wondering, it did the trick. Not only was Matt surprised and rather pleased to be eating warm apple cobbler with ice cream, but it kind of made me feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside too (and not because I served it warm).

I chose this particular recipe because I love the savory with the sweet and to me a cobbler sounded a million times improved with cheddar cheese in the crust. I finagled with the original recipe found on epicurious.com (by adding Calvados, for one thing) and ended up with something I will be making for years to come. The crust isn't crumbly - it's more like a light, cheesy cake that compliments the sweet apple filling.

My version is slightly heavier on the sugar used in the filling because Bramley apples are, as previously stated, seriously tart. If you're using Granny smiths or other sweeter varieties, cut the sugar in half. And be sure to get a pint of good ice cream to accompany it - or the clever-cleverness of it all just goes down the drain. :)

Ingredients

For the Filling:
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
4 large Bramley apples, peeled, cored,
chopped into 1/2 inch cubes
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1-2 Tablespoons ground cinnamon
1/2 cup whipping (single) cream
1/4 cup Calvados (Apple Brandy)
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

For the Topping:
1 cup all purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup (packed) shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese (about 4 ounces)
1/2 cup whole milk
1 large egg

Method

For the Filling:

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a pot or pan large enough to hold the apples over medium-high heat. Once melted, add the Calvados and cook for 30 seconds.

2. Add the apples and sauté until they are soft, stirring occasionally and not allowing them to get mushy. Mix the sugar, flour, ground cinnamon, and nutmeg into the fruit. Then stir in the whipping cream and immediately remove from heat.

3. Transfer the filling to a baking dish of choice (I used an oval shaped ceramic dish - medium, smallish size.

4. Bake filling at 375°F for 10 minutes before adding the topping.

For the Topping:

1. Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl.

2. Add the chilled and chopped butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Stir in the cheese.

3. Beat the milk and egg in a small bowl to blend and then mix the liquid into the flour mixture with a wooden spoon (the dough will be stiff).

4. Drop the dough by the heaping tablespoonfuls onto the filling, spacing evenly and covering the entire surface.

Before and After

5. Bake the cobbler until the crust is golden and a skewer inserted into the topping comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

Little Known Fact:

Ed Gein, diabolical necrophiliac and the original inspiration for both Psycho and Silence of the Lambs, required one thing of the police in order to cooperate with their investigations - a slice of apple pie with cheddar cheese on top. At least this infamous cheesehead had good taste in something.

Can I Be a Cheese Head Please?: Cheese Curds & Wisconsin

Believe it or not, one of these lovely ladies is named Brenda!
I got this image here.

Because once upon a time a young lad from Detroit, Michigan proposed to a young lady from De Pere, Wisconsin , I was given the unexpected and exciting opportunity this weekend to head back to my fourth home (the 1st being Mexico, 2nd Texas, 3rd Italy): the American Midwest.

That's right, my friend Krista got married this weekend in one of the lovelier places I've visited of late: Door County, Wisconsin. And can I just say, in the name of love and nuptial bliss, that her wedding was not only a touching tribute to the definite existence of soulmates, but also a damned good time: There was much lifelong promising, dancing and merrymaking, there was funk and awesomely fashionable feathery-hair-pieces, there was Moonlight Bay, and wooded cabins, and in truly Wisconsin style, there was cheese.

Before this, I would have drawn a cheese-filled blank had you asked me anything about Wisconsin. But having now returned from my weekend of all-things-cheese-head, I can officially and proudly present today's list.

* * *

Top 5 Reasons I Loved Wisconsin
or, 4 excuses to talk about number 1

squeak: like a mouse, like a cheese-curd.

5. Super-Posh-Outdoorsiness.
It could just be Door County, or it could just be that Krista has really good taste, but the reception location and the place we stayed was one of the most tastefully done "outdoorsy" places I've ever been. And I'm not talkin' (pardon the pun) cheesey log-cabin, lumberjack-flannel-outdoorsy.

manicured wilderness: the new camping.

The Gordon Lodge was like something out of the 50's, in a really good way, with the squeaky (there's that word again) clean look, attention to detail, and incorporation of the beautiful natural surroundings into the lodge itself.

It has free kayaks, row boats, a heated pool, and access to the lake via a really pretty dock; plus, every room or cabin has a little porch facing onto Lake Michigan. It's the kind of place campingly-divided couples can truly enjoy because it's clean and refined enough for the urbanite, and yet woodsy and outdoorsy enough for the nature-lover.
Bravo Gordon Lodge. Bravo. *slow intense clap with eyebrow raised*


4. Trees. Lots and lots of trees.
Arriving from London, or, really, England, with its manicured countryside and lack of forests (despite Robin Hood's claims), I was really mentally unprepared for all the trees there are in Wisconsin. That sounds, odd, yes, but what's really odd is the effect that nothing but open, grass-covered rolling hills can have on your natural memory.

But hey, Roman loves trees. He stares at them and gapes at them and smiles at them. And it's not just because he likes them that I like them. There's something calming and beautiful about a real forest. And in Wisconsin you get the real thing - trees as far as you can see. The underbrush is short, so they're just calling out to be walked-among, hidden behind, camped-about.

For once in my Girl Scouting life, I did not scoff at the saying "hug a tree."
And this from a serial scoffer.

3. Lake Michigan
I have an issue with lakes. It grosses me out that when you first walk into the water you feel like you just stepped into a pile of mushed up bananas. It freaks me out that once you're finally in, you can't see what the heck you are stepping in or on or swimming around. The plants tickle your legs in an eery manner that makes me feel like a giant fresh-water eel is about to bite me and then gnaw on my leg until I fall over, falling face first in the muddy brown broth. Sooo, I generally avoid them.

But this weekend in Wisconsin was different, because the moment I took a look at Lake Michigan I wanted to jump in.

Give me Lake Michigan or give me...a pool. :)

This is no Chicago-side lake. The water is blue. And clear. Let me just repeat that: the water was clear. Only twice in my life have I seen clear water like that - once in another life in Priest Lake, Idaho, and this weekend in dubya-eye. Like in Idaho, the water was freezing, but that would not have stopped me from swimming in that lake. I only wish I'd had a spare moment and no infant along, as I would have shamelessly basked like a lovely little swan in Lake Michigan.


2. Cheese-head hats.
So, I think these hats are decidedly underrated for one reason and one reason alone: everyone looks great in them -- if by great you understand that I mean ridiculously hilarious. And of all the people who look great in cheese-head hats I would have to say both Brenda the cheese-curder (from the title picture above) and Father Aaron (aka my old college friend who is now a priest and said the homily at Krista's wedding) rank pretty darn high. Aaron was given a slightly unorthodox version of the cheese-head hat: a yellow-foam sombrero that, I exaggerate not, would have worked splendidly for serving chips and "queso." :)

For your "infoamation," there are many other varieties of cheesehead hats in case a sombrero is not your slice of cheddar. Should've gotten one for Roman.

1. Cheese Curds
After 3 days talking everyone's ear off about wanting to try cheese curds, I finally got my wish. But I had to work for it. My friend Leah offered to give me a ride from Door County to Chicago, and on our way home we vowed to stop at the highly acclaimed Renards.

Sadly, Renards does not open on Sundays - in fact, Sunday is the ONLY day it doesn't open! So we were left SOL. We next stopped at a gas station where I ended up in a conversation with two of the workers and a random guy getting gas regarding where else I could get good cheese curds. Renards was thrown out there, and so was some place in Kewanee, but the last place they mentioned sounded too good to pass up: Mars' Cheese Castle.

Never too early to introduce them to good cheese-curds,

On the border of Illinois and Wisconsin lies a Wisconsin-made-food-product-lover's heaven: Mars' Cheese Castle is a giant store with a giant sign dedicated to promoting and selling all the best of Wisconsin's cheese products. As tempting as it was to buy some beef jerky, or cheese spread, or a beer-shaped piece of cheddar, they had a whole section dedicated to cheese curds and I made a shameless run for it. Sadly, they were all out of fresh cheese curds (except for one pack of Jalapeno flavored ones, but I wasn't feeling it) by the time we got there, but I got a delicious bag of assorted prepackaged curds that really hit the spot.

And sadly, no, they didn't squeak. But I did. :)

* * *

PS: Yay for Roman's first visit to the USA! :)